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Daffodils are relatively pest-resistant, as their bulbs and foliage contain toxins that are unappealing to most insects and animals. However, if you notice vertical streaks on the leaves, it may indicate a virus, and you should remove the infected bulb and monitor surrounding plants for symptoms.

After daffodils flower, they go into dormancy for 6 to 12 weeks, during which time the plant’s future vigor is determined. To prevent the bulb from losing energy needed for flowering the following year, avoid cutting, folding, or braiding the leaves until they have fully yellowed and collapsed. You can disguise the unsightly foliage by planting bulbs alongside leafy perennials like browning, hostas, daylilies, ferns, or adding annuals such as Vinca, Impatiens, and Begonia after the daffodils have bloomed. If planting in a lawn, avoid mowing until the leaves turn yellow. Daffodils thrive under deciduous trees but should not be planted near evergreens or areas with large surface roots.

To transplant or divide bulbs, wait until the foliage has wilted, indicating the end of active growth. Use a digging fork or spade to lift the bulbs, taking care not to damage them, and replant immediately at the same depth and about three times their diameter apart. Water thoroughly.

For optimal care, fertilize daffodils in early spring or use a slow-release granular fertilizer in the fall. Deadhead as needed and watch for virus symptoms. Avoid overwatering in summer and properly water onion plantings in autumn if there is no rainfall. Remove dead foliage and cover with evergreen branches after the ground freezes.

A lovely arrangement of hyacinths sits in a vase atop a table made of white wood.